While much has been written about how climate change is affecting wine, it isn’t the only alcoholic beverage which will be influenced by erratic weather conditions, according to a new study from Heriot-Watt.
It is all too apparent that (generally) hotter growing seasons are having a profound influence on wines across the world, with higher alcohol levels being perhaps the most obvious consequence in the glass. Perhaps of greater concern is the increasing unpredictability of the weather, with prolonged drought and intense rainfall proving a challenge for grape growers.
However, wine is not the only alcoholic beverage which is changing as a result of climate change.
Research from the International Centre for Brewing and Distilling (ICBD) at Heriot-Watt in Edinburgh reveals that the signature botanical of gin, juniper, gives differing tastes to the spirit depending on the growing conditions.
The Heriot-Watt study analysed juniper samples from a range of seven countries across Europe, including Italy, Albania, Serbia and Kosovo.
“Just as wine enthusiasts talk about ‘terroir’ – the influence of geography on grape flavours – we’re seeing that juniper has its own regional signature,” commented ICBD assistant professor Matthew Pauley.
It was discovered that the chemical profile of the volatile compounds in the juniper varied significantly from place-to-place, and also as a result of the growing conditions.
Rain check
Damp harvests are a particular concern for the gin industry.
The study, titled Sources of variance in the volatile contribution of juniper to gin and published in the Journal of the Institute of Brewing, revealed that wetter harvests, such as that of 2017, necessitated prolonged drying of the berries, which in turn affected their chemical composition.
“The least water-soluble compounds are most affected by post-harvest drying. For distillers, this means the flavour profile can shift depending on the harvest conditions,” said study supervisor Professor Annie Hill. “For a multibillion-pound industry, which is increasingly focused on consistency and quality for its discerning consumers, this represents a risk.”
Terpenes, which provide the floral aromas of certain grape varieties, were the particular focus of the study. The researchers collected data using gas chromatography mass spectrometry.
Terpenes provide gin with its floral, citrus, spice and earthy aromas. Among those especially susceptible, due to their lower water solubility, were β-caryophyllene, which provides notes of black pepper and clove to the gin, and α-humulene, which contributes woody and earthy notes.
“With an ever-changing climate affecting growing conditions globally, it’s increasingly important to monitor the effect on existing juniper crops and be aware of new emerging growing areas,” suggested Pauley. “So long as we are vigilant of the changes, and curiously explore different areas for harvesting the dry, piney, signature botanical of choice – your gin and tonic is in safe hands.”
Fortunately, it seems that the other key flavour component of a G&T, quinine, can play a role in combatting climate change as the planting of Cinchona trees can be environmentally beneficial thanks to their absorption of carbon dioxide.
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